The evolution of French cuisine has played out in a fascinating way in Hong Kong, with venues such as Serge et le Phoque, which has just opened a second branch in London, reminiscent of the bistronomy movement in Paris—with approachable dining that doesn’t sacrifice creativity, and speaks of its time and place. At Serge, few diners escape without the obligatory dacquoise for dessert, which has become a delicious constant in a world of waxing and waning trends—the rest of the menu is where you can exercise your adventurous side, with dishes ranging from sea bass with mangosteen and wakame to Challandais duck with cloud ear mushrooms and sakura (quite often, ingredients are sourced from Wan Chai market across the road), done with aplomb by chef Nicholas Chew.
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