This is a serious restaurant, capable of great magic when cooking in its wood-fired oven. The attractive interior feels like a resort, with a long bar, giant skylight to maximize the natural light of such a narrow space, and outdoor patio. The room is lively and packed but always conducive to conversations. Tacos may be the main draw, especially when their near-perfect tortillas are piled with superb lamb barbacoa or soft-shell crab. However, this kitchen doesn’t stick to one dish or even area of Mexico. Instead, it reaches widely across myriad regions, always balancing abundance with fresh and vibrant flavors.